Surfing- By Phoebe Barr
I think the six of us girls can all say that we were a little nervous for surfing; I know I was. As we drove up to the beach in the back of a pickup truck we all got very jittery. Especially after the 30min power point Jen gave to us saying things like 100 people die drowning in America every year, and don’t get caught in a rip tide! We walked on to the hot sand, and got our colored zinc on. We looked extremely dorky. We all grabbed a surfboard and practiced our pop ups, which by the way is much harder in the water than on the ground. Only a few of us could go out on the water first, coincidently I was one of the first ones along with Maddie, and Abi. Once we got far enough out in the ocean we could relax a little bit, but in a few short minutes we had to get on the 3-foot wave that looked like 10 feet. I don’t think any of us could stand up the first time. We all kind of lied down, or went on our knees. When I first stood up on my board, I felt this feeling of peace. I was in a state of mind where nothing else mattered, and I just let go of everything. Being on the waves is a feeling I cannot describe, it’s one of those things where you had to be there to understand. At one point, Jen and I were sitting on our surfboards while the sun was setting, and she turns to me and says, “This is just like being in church.” I looked at the ocean, turned back to her and agreed.
To my family:
Yabsera- I miss you oodles! When I was at the orphanage there were so many kids that reminded me of you! Stay cuddly!
Michael-You would have loved being here. There was this kid who danced like Michael Jackson and it reminded me of when you made that butt video. Miss you!
Cal- I can’t wait to be in California with you so we can surf together! I miss you to the moon and back!
Maddie- I can’t believe that when I get back we will only have like two days together ☹ I hope your show went well, I heard it was amazing! I love you Moo!
Mom-I can’t believe you are not here sharing this with me! It is completely life changing; I can’t wait to tell you about it!
Dad- I have so much to tell you about this trip. I can’t wait till I get home so I can give you a big squeeze!